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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, my boxer is almost a year old now. He is a white boxer that was born deaf. He can't ear absolutely anything from any of the ears. Because of that, since he came to our home he NEEDS to be in same room as us at all times. He will only sleep if there's someone there and many times will sleep in front of doors. The main problem is that he can't be alone. He became destructive and can hurt himself. If we leave him in a cage he will only stay for small periods of time and if he can see people. We tryed leaving him alone for 2/3 hours in the cage and he will be in panic the whole time. He even bended the door of the cage, which could have hurted him.
In addition, he is not friendly towards unknown people or animals. If somebody tries to pet him he will try to bite and gets very defensive. This means that we can't leave him alone, but we also can't take him with us anywhere because of his behavior. If anyone has any advice on how we could help with this kind of problem I would appreciate. Thank you
 

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Snuffle Matts and Bob alot

I like to back up my Commands with Hand Signals so I can eventually get a down via remote without shouting


Snuffle Matts

You can DIY snuffle matts and there are ball and puzzle games

There are a heap of Scent Games you can play with your Dog
mine is so good at the treat under the cup she can get it out like a magician without tipping the cup
You think she got it wrong but u just did not see her take it she tips the cup pushes it and gobbles the treat in an
instant


The Nose of a Dog is so sensitive it can not be scientifically measured
when they hit a track to tell the direction they stop move their head from side to side
one foot print put down a fraction of a second is stronger than the other so they know what direction
the animal went

If it has not hearing it may rely on scent more

I would get into tracking, scent detection finding articles all that kind of stuff
and communicate via Sign Language or Hand Signals

I use Hand Signals as well as word for Come Sit Down Stand Stay

Hope that helps
 

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There is another member that sometimes frequents the board with a deaf white boxer. She used a vibrating collar to get dogs attention, and uses hand signals. The dog should have been trained really no different than any other, except to make the accommodations for hearing. They have good sight and excellent scent skills. I would try to re- train the dog, the separation anxiety is a issue, not to sure what to do about that but even hearing dogs have that. I have a rescue that really does not like being left. Since I've had him I just go about my business walking out one door, in another, sometime I give a chew toy, or a bop a lot like the one mentioned above. I don't make a big deal of my comings and goings. While he still isn't always keen on my leaving, he settles down and all is well when I return.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, he likes those kind of toys, but if I leave the room he will forget the toy and follow. If I gave him one inside a crate, the moment I leave his view he will forget the toy and start to cry non stop. And we have left him up to 4 hours alone in the crate in hopes he would calm down with a toy with food but no. We could see on camera that he cried the whole time trying to open his cage.
And we do teach him with hand commands. He nows sit, down, wait, paw and a bunch of others. But he will not stay calm, or even calm down later if we leave him alone. To the point I think he could hurt hilself.
 

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a heap of the e collars have vibration mode and the lower setting of "shock" are a tingle humans do not feel but dogs do
Used properly e collars are like a pager and the shock is really there as a safety for emergencies

I have not used one yet but will once I have the training solid conventional training
we will polish e collar and do snake aversion
Big Male Kangaroos can do some damage to a dog and can kill it

These folks are good and this vid may be useful

 

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You can't fix everything at once. You have to start with the "Basics," and the "Basics," for your dog would be the Crate. If you sen him of to a Board and Train $$$! He would be "Crate Trained." And as far as I know? That would be either a "Stronger Crate," or the "Straw Method."

I would opt fot the "Straw Method," myself as it seems less intrusive? But I have never tried it as I have never had the need? But I am allt for whatever is less "intrusive," as a general rule. But get him settled in the "Crate," first and then you can start making progress.
 

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Your Dog looks like the Nice Dog they were ignoring at Obedience class

There is still a heap you can do with a Deaf Dog - Agility tracking all sorts to stimulate its brain

Tracking is good fun and like anything there is about 100 ways to train it

This start with the tracking box method is cool

Took 10 days holiday to foundation train my pup a while back
and hey we got chomped on our first walk by some bogans Pit Bull
so it was 10 days on anti biotics - can't treat train a dog when you are feeding anti biotics
2 times per day.

Wanted to do an excel sheet of commands and different training techniques for everything
So I could mesh the training lap top battery failed there is so much info out there
you can get confused and off track. I want to steal all the good techniques off good trainers.

You have to keep it simple and if you are not training your dog - you are training your dog - regardless

Hey now it has broken my partners leg below the knee - stitch in time save nine
Good dog lots of power

With a deaf dog I would be inclined to make their sleeping arrangement secure
not a mesh crate one with walls - and a good view of the approach area.
Dogs have great hearing and normally they are forewarned of anything
a deaf dog is not - might reduce some anxiety ? or maybe a partial open crate is better -?

Agility tunnel in the yard might help run through it watch the world from it ?

I would go with lots of touch in the morning
Morning Cuddle

Deaf Dog is going to be more Tactile? if it vocalises it can't hear itself can it

In the Pacific in WW2 the dogs were taught to indicate to their handlers by tugging the sleeve.
not sure how they did that - but those dogs achieved incredible things.

Before Dogs they would loose approx 50% of scouts on Patrol, when they first used Dogs
every scout returned. Silence is essential for some activities. I would not see it as a complete handicap.

You need to communicate with it and it needs to communicate with you - some how?

Dogs need to know everything is going to be OK and OK is a hand signal from the War.
So you will be A OK
 

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  1. I'm a Diploma Qualified L3 Behaviourist and run a 10 kennel rehab facility from my property. I have 4 dogs of my own and ones a Boxer. Just wanted to give you my credentials so you no my advice is going to carry some weight. However although I deal with aggression every week 12 months a year and have done for 14yrs now, this is a first iv never had in an aggressive (in this way) blind dog so my usual method and techniques id usually recommend for young dogs with this problem I'm going to have to tweak quite a bit and hope it works!
I will warn you this will be long to read next time if you reply and want my help as it's not actually in person and most of it is going to be re training you and teaching you as I can guarantee you have unintentionally caused the problem every owner with out realising it does, I can tell this just by looking at your profile picture and plenty of experience. I usually prove this to the owners by taking there dog into my kennels which is how I work, and use video calling so they can see that there dog has not shown any of the behaviours they brought them in for- because I break the behavioural cycle. So I hope your willing to change slightly to give him a more emotionally balanced life!?

The questions below are really important for me to know before helping, I no exactly why he's behaving like he is and what's caused it which has now most defiantly caused severe separation anxiety, one of the hardest to fix behavioural problems there is! I need to teach the right techniques or nothing will work and as the owner you need to be 110% on board and with me no matter how repetitive or this will never go away only escalate. (this is the first time iv every done this online by the way).
About him -
  1. Did you take him to puppy socialisation classes or socialised him yourself from a pup? (It would have been crucial to do this with deaf and blind dogs more so than ones with no disability)
  2. Did he show this aggression from day one you had him, or has this manifested it's self over time?
  3. When some one new is around and when someone try's to touch him does he go forward with aggression or back off and be aggressive?
  4. What's his body language doing when there's another person around and when someone go's to touch him (iv attached a diagram to help you tell me). Is he tail between the legs nervous?, Is his body ridged and upright? Does he stay still during the aggression or move around?
  5. What's his normal every day behaviour in the home? Is he chilled out just lying on his bed or is he constantly pacing or up and down?
  6. Does he eat well?
About you -
  1. Do you have a strict same time everyday routine with him for feeding, walkies etc?
  2. Does he follow you everywhere, if he can't get to you for example if you shut the bathroom door does he start whining?
  3. What do you do when he gets in the aggressive or frightened state? Do you vocally and physically reassure him every time or generally try and stop him from being upset in a cuddly soft voice? Or give him treats? Walk/write me through exactly how you respond when he shows this behaviour it's really important! Plus what the other person does thats attempting to touch him.
  4. Do you let him sit his full body on your lap or does he at least try to do that?
  5. Brown Head Vertebrate Product Organism

I would like to try and help you so I hope you find the time to reply, don't worry if it's a long one in writing I'm expecting it. 🙂🐶
 
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