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If you have a fearful nervous or anxious dog what do you do??? If you have a nutty boisterous or crazy dog what do you??

Many times the problems are different but the solutions are the same! The first step is to take a deep breath and relax! You can't fix your dog's "issues" if you mirror there behavior!

A calm confident demeanor is required! If you don't have you can fake it! Just be quite when you "work" your dog. :)

Two techniques that "Pro's" use that will work on all these issues are "The Place Command" and "Sit on the Dog."

"Sit on the Dog " is necessary if you have Fearful Nervous Dog. And it's a good idea even if you don't. These two things help you to "Train Calmness into a Dog" and train an off switch!"

The "concept" was brought to our attention by "Bailiff" a "Pro" on the GSDForum. I just did some leg work to break it down for others.

So first is "Sit on the Dog":
Wheres my sanity: Sit on the Dog, aka: The long down

Looks like this:
Energy - it's all about confid-tude

And real work with a fearful anxious dog:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7qf-W8udaI

If your dog does not have those particular issues but you would like them to be well behaved in public, find a quite out of the way spot, and just "Sit" and observe. It will be time well spent!

Next is "The Place command" and every dog should know this! If you want to stop the Door Bell craziness this is the tool.
The Magic Of Duration Work | The Good Dog Life Blog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIGq_5r0DeE
Train The ?Place? Command |

So there you go and personally for me I tend to favor Jeff Gellamn that's how I work no treats (Though he will train with food) and not a lot of verbiage, works for me!

But ... I "found" someone else that I feel has good advice and although she will use treats ...she explains how and when to and she also trains with a Slip Lead Leash and explains how to do so, "Dogercise Dog Training" on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zJHMam9zc8&list=PLB6f2gzhz_Al0BRwKnvesFg855NnzwyJn

Now I will say that while she does try and "KISS" that might be a fail?? But nonetheless a lot of insight and she shows some work with more difficult dogs!

And some questions were asked on "The Place Command here so read the first post and click on the link at the top for follow ups.:
http://www.boxerforums.com/1822490-post28.html

And tow sites folks should be aware of Sean a friend of Jeff ...use a lot of tolls as of late not my thing but he has a weekly Q&A Saturday that I find informative:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5udhV2WoZPk

And his website
Free How-To Training Videos - The Good Dog

And of course Jeff Gellman FB and a weekly radio show and he says "everything people want to know to train there dog for free is available on my radio show, look under the heading free advise." And apparently you can contact him on FB. :)

Solid K9 Training - Rehabilitation and Family Dog Training


And you'll note by and large save for the exception I've now inclued! All the "Pro's" use a "Prong Collar" I don't myself and if you don't want to do then ...back to basics:

http://www.boxerforums.com/training-behavior/179513-slip-lead-leash.html

Yeah I'm like a dog with a bone on that one! Hope this helps??
 

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Hmm, I know 'mI kinda like a broken record with the "Place Command" and I always say "the "Pro's" always train "Place" and "Crate" with "every dog they work with.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words ... hmm which I usually tend to do. :))

But back on point The "Place Command" in use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SU1On4PNbsI

And just because "something" came up ... don't train "Place" using a freaking "ottoman"
or other furniture as "Place!"
 

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Adding another one from Bethany (treat free) more to my liking. :)

Place as implied Stay, I do both with Rocky also, eye contact Place and Stay. But he is free to change positions and as it happens ... note the use of the Slip Lead Leash! Leash "pressure" high and snug.

As I "tried" to explain here:
http://www.boxerforums.com/training-behavior/179513-slip-lead-leash.html

Just saying. :)
 

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I could listen to her all day. Defiantly need to work on this more so. I can get Duke to go to his bed or mat when its just the usual family around, Although I find it harder when company come over he just wants to be all wiggly jiggly in their space..:disgusted: so I normally crate him.
 

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I could listen to her all day. Defiantly need to work on this more so. I can get Duke to go to his bed or mat when its just the usual family around, Although I find it harder when company come over he just wants to be all wiggly jiggly in their space..:disgusted: so I normally crate him.
LOL this is why I come over here when I need a break from all the fighting and biting dogs! :)

This whole thread is a result of things I learned from "Rocky!" Over Size Working Line GSD. I could not afford to have him loose with company, (serious people issues) someone could get hurt!

And I was "not" willing to chance the low growl and cold hard stare being supplanted with a cookie! :chair:

So the Cesar Milan approach was a no go. I did the negotiation with the dogs to allow guest. in and the go to bed thing?? Not the same, yes (they) Struddell and Gunther did just that.

They would go to bed and Struddell would whine and plead to "company" and now "I" was the bad guy??

So within minutes it was:

:crazyeye:

And of course maddness ensued! But company (men) luv'd it ...sigh. But when I had "Rocky" no not gonna happen he stayed in "Place" and kept company out of his face! Did not understand I was doing anything special at the time?? It just made sense.

I only understood it when one of the Malinois guys (Baillif) explained it to us.
And I need immediately where it was most needed!

By and large, you don't I believe have to keep your "Boxer" in "Place" with visitors the whole time but if you train "Place" they will learn to "chill." Then if you chose to release them they should not be as ramped up as they otherwise would be.

There are actually ways to tame the whole company crazy bit down. Protocol
for dog aggression issues. It would be the same for company crazy dogs but by and large, I don't know that anyone here views that as a problem??

Boxer folks (speaking for myself) seem to expect a certain degree of craziness from their dogs. :)
 

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I could listen to her all day. Defiantly need to work on this more so. I can get Duke to go to his bed or mat when its just the usual family around, Although I find it harder when company come over he just wants to be all wiggly jiggly in their space..:disgusted: so I normally crate him.
Once he knows "Place" use a long line if necessary and work on "Place" with distractions "Outside" a Dog Park would be a good spot, use care!
 

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I could listen to her all day. Defiantly need to work on this more so. I can get Duke to go to his bed or mat when its just the usual family around, Although I find it harder when company come over he just wants to be all wiggly jiggly in their space..:disgusted: so I normally crate him.
OK clearly your not happy with the current situation. But don't despair, there are things you can do. :)

Usually they are reserved for dogs and owners that are having big time fighting biting issues but they work with all dogs.

But first, the problem as I understand, it is most likely your Boxer likes people! No problem "exactly" they all do for the most part.

Most likely the sitution as I now understand it, your Boxer gets exacted to meet people. You have him wait politely (but) he is still ramped up becasue "Oh boy I get to meet people!"

Pretty much "everyone" does that (I did) and both "Struddell and Gunther" were Bears with folks in the home! :cry2:

Well if you do that your actually trainer your dog "to be excited to meet people!"

What should happen, is you wait for your dog to be calm and quite before "allowing them to interact with people."

So by default, that would mean "NO Butt Wiggles." That is pretty much as over the top as a "Boxer can get!" So yeah, it's kinda like ... good luck with that. But the part I underlined is the "problem."

But ... there is a work around. You might be able to get a prefered behaviour, in as little as two weeks if your willing to make some changes.

So it would look like this, No Free Roaming in the house. Crate or Place in the house, No bed or Furniture previlages. No long good byes or over the top greetings, when you get home or leave.

If when people come over the dog needs to stay in "Place" and no interaction with company. If you do this for at least two weeks, it should bring about a change in demeaner.

Once it's understood how you expect him to behave that "should" become the new default behaviour.

"Place" and "Sit on the Dog" train train train! They are both about training calmness. Double up the effort and you should see a change. :)
 

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Got an update on Training Place, "apparently" Jeff has been working with Michael Ellis?? Not sure ,but I do see "Marker" training here, I felt it was helpful so going to add it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hyu97TjSCaA
 

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OK more stuff is showing up here's one for those who dogs have fear issues with a "Place Cot" elevated platform ... that should make "Place" easier to train for a dog with no issues.


It seems to me a "throw rug would have been easier, but whatever.
 

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Thanks ... I tried to pack in as much info as I could find on "Place" on here. And I did not know what it was at first?? My formally Human Aggressive WL GSD ... taught me! Serious "people issues" ... but if he was in "Place" already ... "my job" was simply to keep "company out of his face!" I was good at my job. :)

I just started digging up info to figure out "what the deal was??" It's a very old technique and it's pretty much standard in K9, rehabbed work.

And with Boxers, certainly a lot more effective then a constant barrage of ... "Go to bed ... Go to bed .... and No, No No when company comes over. :)
 
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