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The video says that the collar is suppose to stay on the top of the neck. I guess that contraption keeps it from sliding down.
 
Newcastle\";p=\"2357 said:
I don't have sound on my computer here - what's the purpose of the neck-harness-looking-contraption?  From the video, it doesn't look as if you use it at all - is it just supposed to keep the collar from sliding down from behind the ears?
It's hard for me to explain, but here are the acutual instructions...it's PDF file so you need adobe.

http://cesarmillaninc.com/products/Illu ... ctions.pdf

It shows in detail how the collar is designed, and how it functions. The type of leash you would use for showing (like he does with the end of a leash) is what you want to stay behind the ears. When you train for shows, you always maintain contact which keeps the leash in place. This is where your collar is most effective...but as soon as you put a little slack in the leash, it slides down the neck. The neck harness he built has this slide through piece (similar to how a choke chain functions) built in at the top. That is what you actually connect you leash to, and that is how you can correct your dog with the most effective method, but still allow a loose lease without losing the correct position.
 
Thanks for clarifying; I did read the instructions earlier but it still wasn't exactly clear to me.  It's an interesting gimmick, but personally, if the only purpose is to stop the collar from sliding down the neck, I think I'd save myself $35 and buy a properly-sized snap choke. :)
 
Thanks for the new info about the snap choke....something i didn't even know about. My girl was a bit of puller (not the pull you off your feet type), and I tried a choke chain, but she didn't react very well. I got one of the gentle lead harness from Premier (got a good deal on the internet), and it took close to 2 weeks of walking in both the harness and collar to get her fully adjusted and responsive...she does great now, and I can use a standard harness now and she's great. I actually like the harness better as she gets scared easy and she can't slip out of the harness...and the metal on regular collars irritates her neck and chest making it break out in hives.
 
Oh Ive tried them all lol Good thing Roxy doesnt pull as much!! I went and paid $20 plus on a pinch collar for her and it never worked! Maybe the first couple times we took her out! She was a beast when it came to me walking her! Then I went and bought her a Head Halti off of the drs foster and smith site nad it works like a charm!! Took her a couple days to get use to it but after that she never minded it!!

PS Matt when you get Ghost to be calm when meeting strangers and dogs............let me know your secret lol :)
 
I probably should have mentioned that I don't personally use chokes for training or walking - I only use chokes for showing - and I don't use corrections in any case, so the snap choke was a hypothetical for me. :)  For walks, I use the Lupine combo collars - also called "martingale" or "greyhound" collars, but Lupine makes them in nice patterns.  They tighten up with tension on the leash, so the dog can't slip out of them, but they won't get tight enough to choke the dog (if they're fitted properly, of course!).  They also give you a convenient built-in handle when the collar is tight, which I've found helpful for keeping the dog close and under control in crowded situations.

Since I realized I've never answered the original question, here's a bit on that. ;)

"Be A Tree" (stop walking whenever the dog pulls) can work, but it doesn't always.  "Penalty Yards" (have a target set up a distance away, walk toward it, whenever the dog pulls back up behind the starting line and try again) seems to be more effective in general - I think it sends a more clear message to the dog: "Pulling gets you further away from what you want", rather than "Pulling means you stay where you are".  More info on both techniques, as well as other ideas, can be found in these articles:
http://www.clickersolutions.com/article ... #behaviors
http://www.clickertraining.biz/nopull.htm
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I now walk Daisy on a collar and lead but the collar that I put on her is a greyhound one. With it being nice and wide it's a bit better on her neck and throat. We've been doing quite well with slowing down if she begins to pull and it is getting easier to walk her. I am planning on enrolling her for training classes some time soon so we'll see what suggestions are made then!
Things are a lot better now though. I do get her to walk alongside me.

Heather
 
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